Questions on how to achieve this look? Email Liz at Liz@thegildedgirl.com for assistance
]]>Two of the hottest skin care ingredients over the last couple of years are Squalene and Squalane. Sure, they're in lots of products and beauty editors have been fawning over them for awhile now. But what are they? What do they do?
First up? Squalene. Squalene is a colorless poly-unsaturated hydrocarbon liquid that’s found naturally in many animals and plants, including sebum (your skin's oil). Most cosmetic formulations use squalene derived from olives or rice bran. Basically, it’s one of the lipids your body produces to lubricate and protect your skin from the environment.
Squalane, on the other hand, is a derivative of squalene and is much lighter, which makes it optimal for acne-prone or hypersensitive skin. It also has a longer shelf life than squalene as it does not oxidize, which is a plus when it comes to cosmetic preparations.
At The Gilded Girl, we carry several products containing squalene or squalane.
Our favorites?
Joanna Vargus Rescue Serum - This concentrated, corrective Vitamin C serum will brighten skin and boost radiance. The hydrating, antioxidant-packed formula nourishes skin against daily exposure to the sun and pollution, making signs of aging less noticeable.
Indie Lee Squalane Facial Oil -
Plump it up with this pure, intensive moisturizing oil. Readily absorbed, 100% Olive-derived Squalane leaves the complexion soft, nourished and best of all, never greasy. Your skin's texture and tone will thank you.
Dolphin skin is how you’d imagine your face looking after rising out of the water. Unlike the aptly named glass skin, which is all about acheiving a smooth, poreless, luminous complexion via an elaborate skin-care routine, dolphin skin is the effect of highlighter....and more highlighter....and even more highlighter. It looks shiny and vaguely slippery.
]]>Dolphin skin is how you’d imagine your face looking after rising out of the water. Unlike the aptly named glass skin, which is all about acheiving a smooth, poreless, luminous complexion via an elaborate skin-care routine, dolphin skin is the effect of highlighter....and more highlighter....and even more highlighter. It looks shiny and vaguely slippery.
Although it can look cool in photos, this look does not translate particularly well to real-life. Still, if you'd like to try it, we'd recommend using a high quality highlighter that can elevate your look when you're not trying to look like you walked out of the sea. We love Rituel de Fille's Rare Light Luminizer. It's sheer and radiant and shifts in color from every angle. Simply put, we think it's magical and we're betting you will too.
When we overwash our hands and use alcohol based sanitizers (Again - something we MUST do right now for the good of public health), our hands become stripped of essential oils and its barrier function becomes compromised. What does that mean?
]]>But is glutathione really a panacea for sun and acne damaged skin?
]]>But is glutathione really a panacea for sun and acne damaged skin?
First, what exactly is glutathione, anyway? Glutathione is a powerful anti-oxidant that has been shown to find its way into the cells and block or breakdown the pathway that leads to pigmentation. Sounds good, right? Well, not so fast. Once in the body, IV glutathione has no way of identifying areas of excess pigment, as caused by the sun or injury. So it actually lightens the entire skin, resulting in all over lighter pigmentation. It may not cause a big change in fairer skinned folks, but for more highly pigmented skin, the results can be permanent and catastrophic.
In addition, high levels of glutathione in the body can cause multi-organ toxicity, headaches, and rare skin conditions, such as Stevens-Johnson Syndrome.
The bottom line: If you have areas of hyperpigmentation that cause you concern, stick with topical ingredients such as hydroquinone, Vitamin C, retinol, and kojic acid. Glo Brightening Serum and Glo Lightning Serum are two great ways to brighten your skin without the risks of IV glutathione.
In 2014, the U.S. Food and Drug Administration changed its categorization of indoor tanning devices from Class 1, which is low risk, to Class II, which suggests a moderate to high risk. Many state governments have gone further and passed legislation limiting access to indoor tanning devices for people under 18 years of age, plus imposed regulations like requiring parental consent. Shockingly, data suggests that more people will develop skin cancer from ultraviolet radiation exposure than the number of people who will develop lung cancer from cigarette smoking.
Bottom line: Wear your sunscreen every day. Choose one with a minimum of SPF 30 and reapply liberally. Choose one that protects against UVA and UVB rays. Remember: No matter what anyone tells you, there is no such thing as "safe sun". Or "safe tanning". And it doesn't matter your ethnicity. African-Americans and Latinx persons get skin cancer too.
In addition, limit exposure from 10 in the morning until 2 in the afternoon, when the sun's rays are the strongest and most direct. Finally, do frequent self-checks of your skin and see your dermatologist 1x per year for a full check. Skin cancer kills. Protect yourself!
But those steps can be rendered ineffectual if you don't clean your make-up brushes.
]]>But those steps can be rendered ineffectual if you don't clean your make-up brushes.
A recent test by the beauty and lifestyle website Byrdie showed that make-up brushes, even ones thought to be clean, hold bacteria and fungus that can worsen the condition of the skin.
How do you combat it? Regular (and I mean a cursory cleanse daily and a deep cleanse at least once per week) cleansing of your brushes can help. It is also wise to replace brushes every few years as it has been shown that the older the brush, the more bacteria and fungus it holds, even after regular cleansing.
The good news is that you don't have to spend money on expensive brush cleansers in order to maintain good brush hygiene. I love using Meow Meow Tweet bar soap on a daily basis and Johnson and Johnson No More Tears Shampoo weekly on my brushes. The key is to use gentle, non drying formulations as too harsh soaps and chemicals can make your brush bristles brittle (try saying that 3 times fast!).
Are you overdue for new brushes? The Gilded Girl carries the finest brushes at affordable prices. Check them out HERE!
Many view retinol as royalty in the skincare world for its effective, smoothing properties. For others, it’s synonymous with red, achy, flaky skin.
Now a fresh bunch of products on store shelves claim to deliver results with few or no side effects.
This renewed interest in retinol has already translated into sales. As of November 2018, the anti-aging category was up 13% compared with the previous 12 months, according to market research firm NPD. It also reported a boost in sales of more than 25% at specialty retailers such as Sephora and Ulta Beauty in 2018.
“Now instead of going to the dermatologist for prescription Retin-A, you can get some great results with products containing retinol in the drugstore,” says Patty Bell, a licensed esthetician and makeup artist based in Pittsburgh. “Everyone wants to look their best these days, men included, and I think social media, celebrities and influencers play a huge role in that.”
So what’s so special about these new over-the-counter options?
“Scientists have had some success with circumventing this irritation via plant-based retinols,” says Liz Quesnelle, a licensed esthetician who sells luxury and indie beauty and skincare selections on her website, thegildedgirl.com.
Traditional retinoids and retinoic acid — the ones often associated with peeling and redness — are derived from eggs, milk and other animal products. This new generation of retinols come from carotenoids, the organic pigments from algae and plants that give pumpkins, carrots and other veggies their color. The body converts them to Vitamin A, which needs fats to be effective. So these products also contain nut and seed oils that are high in fatty acids and nourishing to the skin.
While traditional retinols are stronger — and arguably more effective — carotenoid-based ones are a better choice for those with sensitive skin or people undergoing cancer treatment, Ms. Quesnelle says.
Another retinol alternative that’s been picking up in popularity is Bakuchiol. It’s an antioxidant compound that comes from the babchi plant in India. It’s also used in Chinese medicine because of its anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial properties.
Some beauty insiders say that the uptick in sales of all retinol-related products is because they do their job.
“Consumers have tried using the latest, greatest, trendiest new ingredients and have realized that none of them work as well as retinols,” Ms. Quesnelle says.
Whichever retinol product you use, experts suggest slowly incorporating it into a skincare regimen.
“The current thought is ‘a little is good, more must be better’ — not true,” says Brett Freedman, a Los Angeles-based makeup artist who’s from Monroeville. “You don’t want to be hitting your skin with a sledgehammer.”
He recommends using retinol products every couple of nights for the first two weeks to see how your skin responds. This gives skin a chance to adapt, he says. “You’ll be able to use it more often over time.”
People with sensitive skin should avoid harsh scrubs at first because they may further irritate skin while it’s getting used to a new product.
“The bottom line is that it’s never too late to start taking care of your skin. Proper cleansing, toning and moisturizing leads to healthy-looking skin,” Ms. Bell says. “And don’t forget the sunscreen.”
Sara Bauknecht: sbauknecht@post-gazette.com or on Twitter and Instagram @SaraB_PG.
]]>This ingredient is frequently seen in anti-acne formulations and, due to pregnancy's tendency to cause increased breakouts, you may be tempted to use it. Don't. While studies have shown that very little is absorbed into the skin during topical application, in it's oral form, it can cause birth defects and pregnancy complications. It's best to use an abundance of caution and avoid it.
Skin Lightening Products:
Melasma, an increase in melanin production that causes hyperpigmentation on the face, is an issue for many women during pregnancy. The ingredient that is considered the "gold standard" for busting up the excess pigmentation, hydroquinone, is a definite NO. A study published in The Canadian Family Physician found that 35%–45.3% of topical hydroquinone is systemically absorbed through the skin. There have not been studies on the safety of hydroquinone, but given the high absorption rate, it's best to avoid the ingredient until more information is available.
What to use in small quantities only:
Hydroxy Acids:
These compounds are great for exfoliation. There haven't been extensive studies on the safety of these ingredients, but it is not thought to penetrate the skin and enter the bloodstream. Using a low percentage in topical products should not pose a risk. Avoid professional peels and high percentage products (more than 2%)
Ingredients:
Alpha hydroxy acid (AHA)
Azelaic acid
Beta hydroxybutanoic acid
Betaine salicylate
Citric acid
Dicarbonous acid
Glycolic acid
Hydroacetic acid
Hydroxyacetic acid
Hydroxycaproic acid
Lactic acid
Trethocanic acid
Tropic acid
2-hydroxyethanoic acid
So, with so many ingredients to avoid or limit, what CAN you use?
We recommend a gentle mechanical exfoliation (a scrub) to encourage cellular turnover, which can help with hormonally induced breakouts. Our favorite? Andrea Garland Pink Palma Rosa Scrub. It's gentle and the pink clay base will help to draw out impurities.
For moisture, we recommend Squalene Oil, such as Indie Lee Squalene Facial Oil or Indie Lee Squalene Facial Cream. It can help protect the skin from external irritants and can act as an anti-inflammatory in the skin.
Finally, a good sunscreen is key for reducing melasma. Look for a mineral based sunscreen, such as zinc oxide. The minerals are too big to penetrate the skin and, as such, are Generally Regarded As Safe (GRAS) by the FDA.
Are you or one of your loved ones expecting and would like more information and recommendations for your skin? Email Liz at liz@thegildedgirl.com for some personalized recommendations.
DAILY P.M.
Cleansing
Daily Exfoliation
Treatment Serum
Eye Cream
Moisturizer
After the day is done, it's important to wash the make-up, dirt, grime, and excess oil off of your skin, using a gentle cleanser. We recommend sulfate free cleansers as they do not strip the skin.
Following cleansing, you need to use a gentle daily exfoliant. We prefer chemical exfoliants to scrubs as scrubs can irritate the skin and, in some cases, can even cause microtears, which allows bacteria to infiltrate. Chemical exfoliants include retinol, glycolic acid, and lactic acid.
After the exfoliation, apply any other serum that you use (Vitamin C, Brightening, etc). Having freshly exfoliated skin allows for a deeper penetration of these products. Incidentally, we do encourage everyone to use a Vitamin C serum.
Next comes eye cream, which should contain ceramides and peptides. These are ingredients that promote a more youthful appearance after prolonged use.
Finally, your moisturizer. Like the day moisturizer, this can help slow the evaporation of water from your skin. Unlike day moisturizers, these can have more active ingredients such as niacinamides, peptides, vitamins, and other nutrients. As you sleep, the body does its healing. So using these ingredients at night amplifies the effect.
Please contact Liz at Liz@thegildedgirl. com to create a comprehensive skin care regimen that can address all of your skin care goals!
3) Add a few drops of rubbing alcohol (or vodka, if you don't have rubbing alcohol). Let it sink in.
4) Once the alcohol is fully integrated into the powder, cover the product with plastic wrap and, with the back of a spoon or your finger, start mashing. Mash it all down and smooth the product out.If the product doesn't come together, repeat steps 3 & 4.
5) Leave the product to sit overnight, uncovered, to let the alcohol evaporate.
6) Check the product in the morning - it should be as good as new.
And you can spend your money on that new lip color you've been eyeing instead of on replacing a product that you just bought.
VOILA!
For more tips, subscribe to out newsletter!
]]>
Spring Beauty and Bling
The Gilded Girl and Idia’Dega blend their collections of cosmetics and jewelry for a special pop-up event in Lawrenceville
PITTSBURGH, PA – May 23, 2018
On Saturday June 2nd, two Pittsburgh-based women-led brands team up to create unique spring through summer looks - pairing radiant cosmetics from The Gilded Girl Beauty Emporium with gem-toned inspired sustainable jewelry from Idia’Dega.
“This new season add more color, more playfulness and a new approach to your look,” says Liz Quesnelle of The Gilded Girl. “Spring and summer offers a cornucopia of different events and activities. Black-tie or beach weddings, music festivals, BBQs and travel – now is the perfect time to add some fun.”
“For 2018 we added new colors to our jewelry collection inspired by gems and metals of the earth – sapphire, ruby, rose gold, emerald and jade, to name a few,” Tereneh Idia explains. “We thought that a great way to bring out those colors is to pair them with the unique collection of cosmetics that Liz carries. Beautiful cosmetics you can find nowhere else in Pittsburgh.”
The Gilded Girl offers cruelty-free, organic and vegan beauty products. Idia’Dega jewelry collection is made from glass beads, recycled/reuse plastic and local materials from Kenya, Oneida Indian Nation and Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania in collaboration with OMWA: Olorgesailie Maasai Women Artisans of Kenya and The Beading Wolves/Beading by Holly. Sales proceeds from Idia’Dega products benefits the women artisans of this collaboration.
Spring Beauty and Bling
Saturday June 2nd 12-5pm
5104 Butler St. Pittsburgh PA 15201 (412) 450-0578
Join us and discover the unique cosmetics featured at The Gilded Girl and pair them with the new sustainable jewelry collection from Idia’Dega.
Light refreshments, wine and beverages will be served.
About The Gilded Girl Beauty Emporium
Featuring exclusive luxury and indie cosmetic brands, The Gilded Girl Beauty Emporium is the hot spot for local, national, and international beauty finds unavailable anywhere else in Pittsburgh. With a distinctive vintage vibe, The Gilded Girl offers a comfortable space to experience new products, take skin care and make-up classes, and create your own signature look. Our carefully curated fragrance, skin care, and cosmetic selections (many of them organic and vegan) include old world brands, as well as small-batch and hand-crafted goods that have been featured in top magazines and boutiques around the globe. In addition, our classes, with professional instruction and complimentary wine, provide a venue for friends to enjoy a night out in a non-traditional setting. With professional level advice, unparalleled service and selections, The Gilded Girl will become your go-to destination for all of your beauty needs.
Liz Quesnelle
Owner
The Gilded Girl Beauty Emporium
5104 Butler Street Pittsburgh, PA 15201
412-450-0578
https://www.thegildedgirl.com/
About Idia’Dega
Idia’Dega is a global eco-design collaboration, developing a new creative community of artisans committed to cultural, creative, economic and environmental sustainability. Idia’Dega designs with The Beading Wolves/Beading by Holly of the Oneida Indian Nation and OMWA: Olorgesailie Maasai Women Artisans of Kenya.
IG: @IdiaDegaFashion Twitter: @IdiaDega phone: 347-681-2284
]]>Skin cancer is on the rise here in the United States and around the world. Luckily for us, it is also one of the most preventable cancers around. Just follow these steps:
1) Use A Minimum SPF Of 15 (30 if you are extremely fair, have a history of burning, or a family history of skin cancer).
For most people, 15 provides a good level of protection from the most damaging of rays. Bear in mind that the higher the SPF, the smaller the increased benefit: That means that SPF 30 isn't twice as strong as SPF 15. In fact, SPF 15 filters out 93% of UVB and SPF 30 filters out 97%, which is only a slight improvement.
2) Reapply EVERY 2 HOURS (more often if you've been swimming or sweating). While mosty people happily put on sunscreen when they're heading out, they are far less likely to reapply as necessary. The sunscreen degrades as it sits on your skin. This means that one application a day is not enough to keep your skin from burning, aging, or worse. Keep sunscreen in your purse/backpack/car/office - basically everywhere. That way, you will never be without it.
3) Use Mineral Based Sunscreens if you have sensitive skin. Those with rosacea, eczema, psoriosis, or other skin disorders that result in sensitivity should use mineral based sunscreens. Look for Zinc Oxide and Titanium Dioxide on the ingredients list. These do not absorb into the skin, rather they tend to sit in the very surface layers, reducing the possibilities of irritating your skin.
Please don't hesitate to ask Liz any questions about your skin and the sun this summer. She is here to help you stay healthy and safe!